Finding Eriskay: Football and self-reflection in the Outer Hebrides

Words: Mike Bayly

Images: Mike Bayly

Football can take you to some unusual places. My latest outing was the small island of Eriskay in the Outer Hebrides. Population 150, one shop, a pub and a church. A calm turquoise ocean gently caresses the sandy shoreline. White ponies graze on the hills. The splendid isolation is set to nature’s ambient score. Nestled in this ethereal landscape is Cnoc Na Monadh, the home ground of Eriskay FC.

In 2015, FIFA designated Cnoc Na Monadh as one of the eight most remarkable venues in the world to play football. Combined with the human story of maintaining an amateur club in a remote, sparsely populated region, Eriskay became a sensation in football circles. Film crews from major media outlets have documented their story, with BT Sport scheduled to make an appearance later this year.

It is easy to understand the allure of this place. Eriskay’s panoramic sea views and comically uneven pitch hemmed in by rocks and rugged slopes is perhaps the most visually arresting football setting I have experienced. There was a reason it was top of my bucket list. There was a reason I travelled three days by train, ferry, and bus to get here.

With two hours spare before Eriskay kicked off against Southend in the Uist & Barra League, I sat near the undulating touchline and looked out at the ocean, deep in thought. People often find catharsis by the coast. Maybe the sea speaks on a frequency only the soul can hear.

I will be 50 in two years’ time. I’ve increasingly pondering the half-centurion milestone, from trivial idiosyncrasies (is it still dignified for a middle-aged man to wear a tracksuit to the local petrol station when purchasing a pint of milk?) to evaluating life’s priorities.

I’ve spent almost every spare weekend and holiday break of the last decade venturing around Britain and parts of Europe researching or photographing football. As a non-driver reliant on public transport, this is a costly, time-consuming, and largely solitary exercise: longer trips necessitate hotel stays to accommodate bus or train timetables, while I’ve lost count of the hours spent waiting at deserted stations for infrequent services. I’ve found myself squeezing multiple games across hundreds of miles into a short period of time, such as last August Bank Holiday when I visited Fort William, returned home and headed off to North Wales the next day.

©Mike Bayly/ Terrace Edition. Eriskay FC.

Objectively speaking, this might be construed as slightly obsessive. Moreover, it means I’ve missed out on numerous social occasions in favour of taking my camera to far-flung football outposts.

In hindsight, I know where this attitude stems from. A few years ago, I dealt with a difficult period of grief and used football – or more specifically, football photography - as a means of escape: the benefits of photography for maintaining positive wellbeing are well-documented. More recently, a health scare further focused my mind. I endeavoured to undertake as many football trips as I could, on the basis we never know when a life-altering event might happen.

A consequence of this approach is tunnel-vision, a single-minded pursuit of a specific hobby at the expense of other activities. In parallel, I became distracted with capturing the perfect shot in the perfect conditions at the perfect ground, not least because I started to define myself solely in terms of my photography. Bad weather or poor light became my bête noire. This quest for continuous all-consuming perfection isn’t healthy or realistic. Far better to appreciate something for what it is, than what it could be.

On the shores of this tiny island, I found a sense of calm and completeness. Eriskay felt like the end level boss in a game of extreme groundhopping. As I packed up my camera after the final whistle, there was a genuine sense of a long journey coming to an end. That I’d been everywhere I needed to go. Anything beyond this was a bonus, not a necessity. Time is a precious commodity as we age.

There is barely enough of it to experience everything Britain has to offer, let alone myriad other countries and continents. Making peace with that is important, like Plutarch’s Alexander after realising he couldn’t conquer one world, let alone all of them.

I have no intention of ceasing my photography travels because nothing else gives me greater pleasure. But I do plan to rein them in. There is much to be said for achieving a balance in life. For a long time, I suspect that was rather lacking.

Every football fan should visit Eriskay. Whether it’s the stunning scenery, unconventional pitch, warmth of welcome or joy of seeing the game thrive in the farthest corners of our lands, the experience can invigorate the heart, and, as I discovered, even the mind.

You can follow Mike on Twitter and Instagram: @Mike_Bayly

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