Burning Lantern: Genoa CFC vs UC Sampdoria.

Words: Ryan Clauin

Images: Ryan Clauin

The opportunity offered by the draw for these 16th Coppa Italia finals does not come along every day, so it was natural that I decided to experience a Derby della Lanterna for real from the stands of the legendary Marassi.

The derby, which takes its name from the lighthouse symbolising the city of Genoa, ‘La Lanterna’, pits Genoa CFC, the oldest club in Italian football, founded in 1893 and nine times Italian champions, against UC Sampdoria, founded in 1946 and winner of an international competition in the 1990 Cup Winners’ Cup.

The derby generally turns in the favour of Samp, with 42 wins for the Blucerchiati compared with 26 for the Rossoblù before tonight’s game.

The Lanterna traditionally offers few instances of major trouble, the tifosi preferring to resort to large-scale ‘Sfottò’ to assert their superiority.

However, the situation is now different, following a succession of attacks that were disputed in their method, but each of which saw materials stolen from both sides and risked resurfacing in the Marassi stands during the game.

So it is in a climate of maximum tension between the two Tifoseria that the Genoese clubs enter this unique game, two and a half years after their last confrontation.

Groundhopping gives me the opportunity to discover many different cities, so I took the time to visit Genova ‘La Superba’; with its innumerable beauties, all in an appreciably calm atmosphere.

At the same time, the climate around the stadium was very different, with riots breaking out at the end of the morning and continuing well into the afternoon, despite the heavy police presence.

I decided to go to the stadium at around 6pm, and I’d advise you to go to Piazza Marin for a superb view of the Luigi-Ferraris from the Mackenzie Castle, and then walk to ‘Via Leonardo Montaldo’ to admire the stadium from various viewpoints.

Part of the legend of this mythical clash, the Stadio Luigi-Ferraris, also nicknamed ‘Marassi’ in reference to the magnificent district in which it is located, is one of the most beautiful stadiums in Italy.

©Ryan Clauin/ Terrace Edition. Derby della Lanterna.

Rebuilt for the 1990 World Cup in an English style that gives it its unique charm, it now has a capacity of 33,000.

I took my place in the Distinti Stand, obtaining my ticket at the free sale available two days before the match for €80. It should be noted that the stadium will not be full, with an expected attendance of around 28,000, many people preferring to escape the expected clashes.

Being in the stadium two hours before kick-off, I had the opportunity to feel the tension and the atmosphere grow until it reached a peak during the warm-ups, with Gradinata Nord Genoa on my right at home and Gradinata Sud Sampdoria on my left ‘away’ but in their usual stand.

This was followed until kick-off by a succession of hostile chants towards the rival, encouragement for his team and anthems that would send shivers down your spine, with a special mention for the ‘Bellissima’ performed in chorus by all the Rossoblù supporters, one of the most powerful moments I have ever experienced in a stadium.

There was no special animation when the players entered the pitch, but a magnificent flood of flags in both curva, accompanied by various pyrotechnic devices, all in an absolutely brilliant atmosphere.

©Ryan Clauin/ Terrace Edition. Genoa CFC supporters.

The Genoa atmosphere was fantastic, not only in the Gradinata Nord, but also in the other stands in favour of the Rossoblù. The whole stadium was feeling the match 200% and the chants coming from the North stand were echoed with envy, creating a unique atmosphere with catchy melodies.

From a visual point of view, it was also a success thanks to the many flags and banners present, punctuated by a large number of gestures and pyrotechnics set off at regular intervals.

The authorities‘ fears were confirmed around the 65th minute with the exhibition in the genoani stand of the Tito Ultras’ materials stolen last May.

The Blucerchiati response was immediate with a banner followed by the display of a flag that had also been stolen.

From that moment, a strange atmosphere took over the stadium, with chants becoming more discreet and flags flying at half-mast.

©Ryan Clauin/ Terrace Edition. UC Sampdoria supporters.

On both sides, the ranks prepared for vengeance and left the stadium in groups to fight outside. The clashes continued in the street for a large part of the evening and the penalties for both clubs were immediate, with a match behind closed doors and three matches without visitors.

Back to the pitch and to talk a little about the match itself, it wasn’t the most exciting and my attention will clearly remain focused on the stands all evening.

Indeed, despite a good start from Genoa rewarded by a quick opening goal in the 9th minute by A.Pinamonti, the Rossoblù gradually disappeared from the pitch, allowing the Doriani to gain confidence until finding the equaliser through F.Borini in the 83rd minute, which pushed both teams to fight for qualification in an electric penalty shoot-out that would finally see Sampdoria win 5-6.

This Derby della Lanterna was a unique experience that surpassed anything I had experienced in other stadiums before, both in terms of vocal power, visual beauty and the tension emanating from it.

I would be very happy to return to the Marassi one day and we can only hope that the situation of the Genoese clubs improves so that this clash can continue its legend at the highest level.

©Ryan Clauin/ Terrace Edition. Luigi Ferraris Stadium.

Ryan is on X : @RyanClauin and Instagram : @SamarOnTour

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